The Korteweg-de Vries equation and water waves. Part 3. Oscillatory waves

Abstract
Water-wave experiments are presented showing the evolution of finite amplitude waves in relatively shallow water when no solitons are present. In each case, the initial wave is rectangular in shape and wholly below the still water level; the amplitude of the wave is varied. The asymptotic solution of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation in the absence of solitons (Ablowitz & Segur 1976) is compared with observed evolution. In addition, the asymptotic solution of the linearized KdV equation (a linear dispersive model) is compared with both the KdV solution and experiments. This comparison is a natural consequence of the fact that, in the absence of solitons, the asymptotic solutions of the KdV equation and its linearized version are qualitatively similar. Both the experiments and the model equations suggest that the asymptotic wave structure consists of a negative triangular wave, travelling with a speed (gh)½, followed by a train of modulated oscillatory waves which travel more slowly. Quantitative comparisons are made for the amplitude, shape and decay rate of the leading wave and the amplitude, dominant wavenumbers and velocities of the trailing wave groups. Over the parameter range of the experiments, asymptotic KdV theory predicts more closely the observed behaviour. The leading wave is observed to decay more rapidly than the trailing wave groups; hence the leading wave becomes less prominent with time. This is in agreement with the KdV solution, whereas just the opposite is predicted by linear theory. Linear predictions for the trailing wave groups are accurate only when they agree with the KdV predictions. Both models predict the evolution of short waves in the trailing wave region. When the short waves are unstable (k gt; 1·36), either group disintegration or focusing into envelope solitons is possible. Both of these phenomena are observed in the experiments; neither is predicted by long-wave models. The nonlinear Schrödinger equation is reviewed and tested as a model of these unstable wave groups. There is some evidence that the KdV equation and the nonlinear Schrödinger equation can be patched together to provide an asymptotic description of these unstable groups.