Surveying the Post-MFA Landscape: What Prospects for the Global South Post-Quota?

Abstract

The editor's introduction to a special issue on the post-MFA apparel industry, this paper reviews the extant literature on the industry, especially with regard to upgrading and development implications for firms and workers in the global South, before summarizing the main contributions of the collection. The five papers comprising the special issue use a global commodity/global value chain approach to analyze the situation of apparel exporters and garment workers, including in Mexico, sub-Saharan Africa, India and China. These papers share a conceptualization of the global apparel industry as a single organizational field in which the experiences and trajectories of individual firms, countries and regions are tied to the dynamics of international trade and production networks. Taking as its point of departure the phase-out of the Multi-Fiber Arrangement, the collection demonstrates how regulatory shifts affect the governance structure of a global commodity/global value chain, how they shape prospects for developing-country firms and regions, and how multilateral liberalization at the global level articulates with regional trade regimes.