Longshore motion generated on beaches by obliquely incident bores

Abstract

Numerical solutions of the two-dimensional shallow-water equations are found for motion on a sloping beach generated by a single bore and by a periodic succession of bores, both incident at small angles. For the latter, periodic longshore motion can always be found if bottom friction (described here by the Chezy law) in included. The timescale of the development of longshore motion is also considered.