Spectral Model for Wave Transformation and Breaking over Irregular Bathymetry
- 1 July 1998
- journal article
- Published by American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE) in Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
- Vol. 124 (4), 189-198
- https://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1998)124:4(189)
Abstract
A numerical model is presented that predicts the evolution of a directional spectral sea state over a varying bathymetry using superposition of results of a parabolic monochromatic wave model run for each initial frequency-direction component. The model predicts dissipation due to wave breaking using a statistical breaking model and has been tested with existing data for unidirectional random waves breaking over a plane beach. Experiments were also conducted for a series of random directional waves breaking over a circular shoal to test the model in a two-dimensional wave field. The model performs well in both cases, although directional effects are not included in the breaking dissipation formulation.Keywords
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