Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract
- 29 June 2011
- journal article
- research article
- Published by Wiley in International Journal of Cosmetic Science
- Vol. 33 (6), 535-542
- https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00667.x
Abstract
Proopiomelanocortin is a precursor peptide that gives rise to several neuropeptides including adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and β-endorphin. POMC-derived peptides have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because we previously observed that melanocortin receptor-2 and μ-opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and β-endorphin decreased with ageing in human epidermis, we have selected an active ingredient (INCI name: Achillea millefolium extract) able to upregulate receptor expressions. The aim of the present work was first to evaluate the effect of A. millefolium extract on the expression pattern of various epidermal differentiation markers ex vivo in normal human skin biopsies using quantitative image analysis and second to evaluate its capacity to rejuvenate the appearance of skin surface in vivo. Results show an improved expression profile of cytokeratin 10, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin in cultured skin biopsies as well as an increased epidermal thickness. In vivo, a 2-month treatment with A. millefolium extract at 2% significantly improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores compared with placebo. Results were also directionally better than those of glycolic acid that was chosen as reference resurfacing molecule.Keywords
This publication has 11 references indexed in Scilit:
- Age‐related changes in pro‐opiomelanocortin (POMC) and related receptors in human epidermisInternational Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010
- Calculation of apparent age by linear combination of facial skin parameters: a predictive tool to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic treatments and to assess the predisposition to accelerated agingBiogerontology, 2009
- Hormetic modulation of differentiation of normal human epidermal keratinocytes undergoing replicative senescence in vitroExperimental Gerontology, 2008
- Skin Barrier Disruption by Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-Exposure Alters the Expressions of Involucrin, Transglutaminase 1, Profilaggrin, and Kallikreins during the Repair Phase in Human Skin In VivoJournal of Investigative Dermatology, 2008
- Deletion of μ- and κ-Opioid Receptors in Mice Changes Epidermal Hypertrophy, Density of Peripheral Nerve Endings, and Itch BehaviorJournal of Investigative Dermatology, 2007
- Sugar‐Induced Premature Aging and Altered Differentiation in Human Epidermal KeratinocytesAnnals of the New York Academy of Sciences, 2007
- Melanocortin Receptor Ligands: New Horizons for Skin Biology and Clinical DermatologyJournal of Investigative Dermatology, 2006
- Ageing of human epidermis: the role of apoptosis, Fas and telomeraseBritish Journal of Dermatology, 2004
- Effect of Collagen Turnover on the Accumulation of Advanced Glycation End ProductsJournal of Biological Chemistry, 2000
- Modulation of Keratinocyte Proliferation by Skin InnervationJournal of Investigative Dermatology, 1999