Abstract
The purpose of the article is to find out the peculiarities of headscarves functioning in the late 19th – early 20th centuries as an element of women’s national dress, to identify general and specific characteristics of their manufacturing and methods of tying, to find out the etymology of the word "headscarf", to trace its relationship with the concept of "ubrus" and others similar in meaning. Research methodology. Using a comparative-historical method, we have explored the etymology of concepts related to Ukrainian women’s headwear. Using a historical-typological method, a cultural and art analysis of the study has been conducted. Scientific novelty. The etymology of significant concepts of Ukrainian headwear, namely "ubrus", "headscarf" and others, is thoroughly studied. Their characteristic features in different regions of Ukraine are noted. The methods of tying headscarves from the 19th to the early 20th century are analysed and presented, the characteristics of their production and distribution in the counties of Poltava province are marked. It is proved that in Poltava province at the end of the 19th century, there were two main ways of tying headscarves simultaneously: in the counties of the north-western part of the province, the method of tying a headscarf with a knot on the top of the head was common, and in the eastern part – with a knot on the neck. Conclusions. Everyday women’s headscarves were intended to cover, insulate and decorate the heads of married women. Patterned woven headscarves were distinguished by the local originality of the artistic solution. Festive headdresses of Ukrainian women differed in variety and elegance. Strict completeness is inherent in the forms of this integral part of the national costume as those that have been refining over many generations. At the end of the 19th century. the wimples, on which a lot of material was spent, were almost destroyed. Headwear of new shapes was becoming more practical, cheaper and lighter. "Starovytsky headscarves" give way to manufactured goods. At the beginning of the 20th century, headscarves became the most common headdress both in the city and in the village.